100 Meadowmont Village Circle
Meadowmont Village, Chapel Hill
Small plates: $8–$14
[one] (or one or [ONE] depending on what part of the website, building, or business card you look at) is a new restaurant from Shane Ingram, the chef and owner of Four Square in Durham (my review), one of the most acclaimed fine dining establishments in the area. Reportedly, [one] is meant to be a more relaxed version of Four Square, but I’m not sure I’d buy that based on the number of waitstaff milling about this modern restaurant. Perhaps a more updated Four Square would be more apt. The décor was mainly in a Swiss or German design palette, as our friends, the lovely couple at Triangle Vino, dubbed it.
I loved the cut-out backs of the gray and red chairs, but I’ve always been an oddball who thinks gray makes a great color for room décor (my mother’s complaints when I painted my room in essentially the same color scheme as [one]‘s in high school were many—that may have been the point). The kitchen is completely open-air with no divisions from the dining room whatsoever except for the blue-underlit bar’s counter. There’s a large wine collection on the left as you enter the restaurant (the wine bottle list is available by iPad), and there’s plenty of seating to accommodate both small groups and large parties. I liked the ambience a lot; it felt like a great option if you are looking for a big-city feel in the midst of the relaxed Triangle.
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